Getting to work

R33 front end

I haven’t done an update in quite some time. For those wondering what’s been going on, I’ve still got the Skyline. I haven’t fallen into my recent fad of buying and selling cars off. My mind is clear and this car is going to stick around for a while.

With that in mind, I wanted to clean the Skyline up before it was too far gone. Unlike Benny I’m quite particular on how I do things with my cars, and the smallest details will often bug me the most. Some might call it a good trait to have, though sometimes it can be a burden.

fixing rust R33

With it up on stands I went over everything a couple of times … wrote up some lists and got to work. First thing was looking for rust and preventing it and/or stopping it from spreading further.

There was quite a few small areas that had been affected, luckily for me the damage was minimal. I’ve cleaned it all up and treated it for now.

old front end vs new

Next up was going over the chassis, this R33 has had a hard life. It’s come off track countless times, broken suspension components mid drift, and even hit stationary objects. It’s safe to say a few things are bent, luckily the chassis rails and other critical parts are not on that list.

cusco x whiteline x powerbrace

The castor rod brackets were haggard to say the least, and I just happened to come across a power brace on the cheap. So that made its way onto Taker. Along with a whiteline swaybar and a Cusco tension brace that were on Paulie’s (Uboat) Skyline.

skyline hicas delete kit

In the rear of the car, it had some shagged HICAS balljoints that were in dire need of removal. At first I was going to do a complete subframe swap, with solid mounts. But I was lacking motivation to carry through with it. So for now, it’s gotten a HICAS eliminator kit that was destined to go on Uboat.

A few other bits and bobs made their way from Uboat too, like the Whiteline traction arms, LCAS with fresh bushes, and whiteline swaybar. The whole brake setup was swapped over too, and braided lines were installed for good measure.

pressing out hicas balljoints

If you ever plan on removing HICAS balljoints, get your hands on a press. It’s a pain in the ass to remove the knuckle but it’s better than hammering away for hours trying to move the damn things.

Total time pressing out the balljoints took 30 minutes. With my first R33, it took me multiple hours hitting them out with the knuckle still on the car.

greddy catch can

Up next was the engine, it’s been super reliable though hasn’t had a thorough check in a while. I noticed a small amount of oil in the intake pipe so I invested in a catch can to reduce this. I was stumped on where to mount it without it looking out-of-place or messy. I opted to install it where the charcoal canister normally resides.

Taker engine bay

I think the end result turned out quite well. Other things I did was move the boost solenoids into the Hi Octane airbox, made a cold air feed to go straight into the Apexi pod filter, and installed a 3 inch metal intake pipe that was on Uboat. The intercooler cross over pipe was mounted a little funny and hitted the bonnet, that’s been sorted now and I’ve changed most of the joiners for new items. This should keep it happy for a long time.

225-35R18 on 9-5J

Somewhere in between all this, I got tyres fitted to my MAE Riverside wheels. Up front is a pair of 225/35R18 Yokohama S drives, mounted on a 9.5 inch wheel.

235-40R18 on 11J

On the rear we’ve got some 235/40R18 China special, mounted on a 11 inch wheel.


Shortly after followed some test fits, I was stoked how well they looked on the car. I did have some doubts before hand. But I couldn’t be happier with the end result.

That’ll do for this update, still got plenty more to post about so watch this space!

5 Responses to “Getting to work”

  1. Chris January 8, 2014 at 7:24 pm #

    Hey man, love reading the stuff you guys do.

    Just curious as to how you got the clear indicators on the four door foggies.. Is it just as easy as changing the bulb?


    • Adam January 9, 2014 at 12:20 pm #

      Hey Chris,

      I’ll be doing a post about that real soon so keep an eye out!

  2. Derek King March 4, 2015 at 11:59 am #

    I was curious who makes the rear hicas delete toe arms? I currently have a hicas delete bar but its still using the stock rear tie rod set up.

    • Adam May 14, 2015 at 3:10 pm #

      Sorry for the late reply Derek! Cusco or a company in Australia called KKR make them. You can get on Ebay. I think Driftworks make them too now.

      • Derek May 14, 2015 at 8:42 pm #

        Thanks Adam. Probably plan on picking that setup up if I have issues with my rear tie rods not holding up to the abuse. Thanks again.

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