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How to: Search Ryco catalogue

If you’ve ever run an aftermarket oil cooler kit. Chances are you’ll need an oil filter with a different thread pitch. I came across this problem myself when I assumed the oil cooler kit would suit a standard filter.
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How to: Search on Up garage + Shipping parts from Japan


Sick of paying premium for JDM parts locally? Can’t find what your looking for on Yahoo auctions? Or, don’t know how to get that part to your door? It’s all in here!

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Replacing Wheel Studs – Part II

Following  up from the front wheel stud install I did last month, I decided it was time to do the rears. The rears are a little tricky and take a little more time then the fronts, as you can’t just knock them in. 

Let’s begin! Start off by getting the car on a set of jack stands, then take the rear wheels off. You’ll then need to take off your rear calipers which are held on by two bolts (14mm I think). Now slide off the brake rotor and you’ll see the studs pressed into the hub.

Ok, get your trusty hammer and do some massaging to the rear brake shield. This is needed so there’s easy access for the studs come out. Next, knock out your first stud. You’ll need to knock one out, and install the new one straight after.

So, the interesting part. Now you’ll need to get that new wheel stud in. I used a bunch of spacers and bolts I had lying around and tightened the wheel stud until it was seated correctly.

Repeat these steps and you’ll have your new wheel studs installed in no time!

Replacing Wheel Studs – Part I

Wheel studs are what keep your wheels bolted to the hub (along with lug nuts). Using spacers on the OEM studs can reduce the amount of thread that the lug nut has to play with, which could become a disaster if anything were to go wrong.

Many people are happy to run up to a 5mm spacer on the factory studs, but for me, I’d rather be safe then sorry. Extended studs aren’t expensive, nor are they hard to install so there is no real reason why you shouldn’t do it if you are running slip on spacers.

So today I decided to change the wheel studs over. I got the car in the air, removed the wheel, caliper and rotor, and started knocking out the studs out one by one. A decent sized hammer will be able to get the studs out with a few good hits, if you plan to reuse your OEM studs or just to have them as spares, then I suggest using a lug nut to take the blow from the hammer.

Installing the new studs are just as easy, insert into the hole in the hub, and knock it in with your trusty hammer. You’ll need a little more force getting the new studs in though.

This is what my thread looked like on the OEM studs (with a 3MM spacer installed), there isn’t much there huh ? The thing that worried me the most was that my lugs didn’t have much thread to bite and lock onto the stud, so I had to be very carefull when tightening the lugs.

Here’s a picture of the new extended wheel stud (with a 3MM spacer installed), that looks much better now, and tightens like it should (no sloppyness, no play, lots of bite etc).

OK, So the studs are in, now reinstall your brake rotor and caliper. Then use an open ended lug nut and tighten it all the way to the rotor. This is just to make sure that the studs are seated properly.

 After your happy with it, remove the lugs, and put the wheel back on the car. Job done!

Any automotive store should be able to get you some extended studs quite easily. I used some “Nice Products” extended wheel studs, part number NS3430 on the fronts. The rear studs are different to the fronts though, and unfortunately I have been supplied the wrong ones. I’ll get the rear studs sorted out and get another tutorial up, cause they are a little trickier then what the fronts are.

Stay tuned!

Be Gone Evil Soft Top

Well my days of drop top driving are a thing of the past now … Well not really, But you know what I mean. On the weekend, I decided that it was time to remove my soft top.

 I had a general idea of how to remove one, but I double checked online just in case I was missing something, fortunately I came across Adam’s (Revlimiter.net) website. There’s a pretty good tutorial written on there about removing the soft top. I did the exact same thing that Adam has done too.

So, Driving Sports – Twilight Drift is this weekend, And there’s still a few little things I need to sort out before then.

Stick around!

Go Shorty

Urgh, back to work today, and what a shocker I had. The only good thing about going to work was receiving some packages from the post, which contained my Barchetta shorty console and OEM hardtop bolts. I wasted no time to get them installed.

The Barchetta shorty console is a great quality piece, however upon installation I did need elongate the mounting holes slightly in order to fit the screws in, other then that installation was, well perfect. This shorty frees up so much room too, which I think is a good thing.

The OEM hardtop bolts were piss easy to install (As you’d imagine), having these bolts installed means I can now rock the hardtop! I’ll have a taste of what it’s like when I drive to work in the morning, but even just sitting in the cabin, I felt like I was in a much bigger car. The car is in desperate need of a wash, so I’ll get onto that soon, oh and I need some new, grippy front tyres.

Stay tuned!